Food and We: Gasronomic Portrait of Saint Petersburg
Abstract
What do people of St. Petersburg eat? What are their taste preferences? Are there any significant differences in the St. Petersburg cuisine? What food can be considered as specific St. Petersburg food? Can we reveal our food patriotism? What is the restaurant world of Petersburg? This article is devoted to these questions. From the standpoint of the sociology of nutrition, we analyze the basic social practices of nutrition in St. Petersburg. We want to show that St. Petersburg as a cultural capital of Russia has its own face in the field of gastronomy and culinary. In the very focus of our article are the processes of social differentiation of nutrition. We also want to show that the culture of nutrition is an important factor in ensuring healthy eating and public health.
Acknowledgments
The article was prepared with the financial support of the RFBR within the framework of the research project No. 17-03-00631 “Daily nutrition practices and public health (on the example of St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region)”.
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Ganskau Y.Y., Minina V.N., Semenova G.I., Gronov Y. (2014) Povsednevnyye praktiki pitaniya zhiteley Sankt-Peterburga i Leningradskoy oblasti [Daily nutrition practices for residents of St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region]. Zhurnal sotsiologii i sotsial'noy antropologii [Journal of Sociology and Social Anthropology], 1(72): 41–58 (in Russian).
Ganskau Y.Y., Minina V.N. (2015) Pravil'nyy obed glazami peterburzhtsev. [The right dinner in the eyes of the Petersburgers]. Zhurnal sotsiologii i sotsial'noy antropologii [Journal of Sociology and Social Anthropology], 1(78): 83–99 (in Russian).
Glushchenko I.V. (2010) Obshchepit. Mikoyan i sovetskaya kukhnya [Public catering. Mikoyan and the Soviet cuisine]. M.: Vysshaya shkola ekonomiki (in Russian).
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Gremchenko Y.P., Roshchina Y.M. (2016) Faktory sklonnosti k zdorovomu obrazu zhizni [Factors of a propensity for a healthy lifestyle]. Vestnik Rossiyskogo monitoringa ekonomicheskogo polozheniya i zdorov'ya naseleniya NIU VSHE (RLMS-HSE) [Bulletin of the Russian Monitoring of the Economic Situation and Public Health of the Higher School of Economics (RLMS-HSE)], 6: 118–163 (in Russian).
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Lotman Y.M., Pogosyan Y.A. (2006) Velikosvetskiye obedy. Panorama stolichnoy zhizni. [The Great Lunches of High Society. Panorama of the Metropolitan Life.] SPb.: Izd-vo Pushkinskogo fonda (in Russian).
Montanari M. (2008) Golod i izobiliye. Istoriya pitaniya v Yevrope. [Hunger and Abundance. History of Nutrition in Europe]. SPb.: Alexandria (in Russian).
Richards A. (1995) Land, Labour, and Diet in Northern Rhodesia. Munster, Hamburg: LIT Verlag.
Simmel G. (2010) Sotsiologiya trapezy [Sociology of the meal]. Sotsiologiya: teoriya, metody, marketing [Sociology: theory, methods, marketing], 4: 187–192 (in Russian).
Sokhan I.V. (2011) Osobennosti russkoy gastronomicheskoy kul'tury [Features of Russian gastronomic culture]. Vestnik Tomskogo gosudarstvennogo universiteta. Seriya “Filosofiya, sotsiologiya, politologiya” [Bulletin of Tomsk State University. Series “Philosophy, sociology, political science”], 347: 61–68 (in Russian).
Syutkina O., Syutkin P. (2012) Nepridumannaya istoriya russkoy kukhni [Unexpected history of Russian cuisine]. M.: AST, Corpus (in Russian).
Veselov Y.V. (2014) Sotsiologiya pitaniya: teoreticheskiye osnovaniya. [Sociology of Nutrition: Theoretical Foundations]. Problemy teoreticheskoy sotsiologii [Problems of theoretical sociology], pod red. A.O. Boronoyeva. SPb.: Izd. tsentr ekonomicheskogo fakul'teta SPbGU, 10: 168–199 (in Russian).
Veselov Y.V. (2015) Povsednevnyye praktiki pitaniya. [Everyday eating practices]. Sotsiologicheskiye issledovaniya [Sociological studies], 1: 95–104 (in Russian).
Volchkova L.T., Ganskau Y.Y. (2001) Obraztsy semeynogo pitaniya kak faktor formirovaniya sotsial'nykh otnosheniy i potrebitel'skikh predpochteniy na rynke prodovol'stviya [Samples of family nutrition as a factor in the formation of social relations and consumer preferences in the food market]. Teleskop: zhurnal sotsiologicheskikh i marketingovykh issledovaniy [Telescope: Journal of Sociological and Marketing Research], 1: 34–49 (in Russian).
Volchkova L.T., Minina V.N., Ganskau Y.Y., Volchkov A.N. (2000) Strategii potrebitel'skogo povedeniya naseleniya na rynke prodovol'stvennykh tovarov Sankt-Peterburga [Strategies of consumer behavior of the population in the market of food products of St. Petersburg]. SPb.: Petropolis (in Russian).
References
Barthes R. (1997) Towards a Psychosociology of Contemporary Food Consumption. In: Counihan C., Van Esterik P. (eds.) Food and Culture. N.Y.: Routledge: 20–27.
Bourdieu P. (1984) Distinction. L.: Routledge.
Braudel F. (1986) Material'naya tsivilizatsiya, ekonomika i kapitalizm. XV–XVIII vv. [Material civilization, economics and capitalism. XV–XVIII centuries]. M.: Progress (in Russian).
Elias N. (2001) O protsesse tsivilizatsii. Sotsiogeneticheskiye i psikhogeneticheskiye issledovaniya [On the process of civilization. Sociogenetic and psychogenetic studies]. M., SPb.: Universitetskaya kniga (in Russian).
Ganskau Y.Y. (2001) Obraztsy potrebleniya produktov pitaniya v sankt-peterburgskikh sem'yakh [Samples of food consumption in St. Petersburg families]. In: Sotsiologiya potrebleniya [Sociology of Consumption]. Pod red. L.T. Volchkovoy, Y. Gronova, V.N. Mininoy. SPb.: Sotsiol. ob-vo im. M.M. Kovalevskogo: 109–129 (in Russian).
Ganskau Y.Y., Minina V.N., Semenova G.I., Gronov Y. (2014) Povsednevnyye praktiki pitaniya zhiteley Sankt-Peterburga i Leningradskoy oblasti [Daily nutrition practices for residents of St. Petersburg and the Leningrad region]. Zhurnal sotsiologii i sotsial'noy antropologii [Journal of Sociology and Social Anthropology], 1(72): 41–58 (in Russian).
Ganskau Y.Y., Minina V.N. (2015) Pravil'nyy obed glazami peterburzhtsev. [The right dinner in the eyes of the Petersburgers]. Zhurnal sotsiologii i sotsial'noy antropologii [Journal of Sociology and Social Anthropology], 1(78): 83–99 (in Russian).
Glushchenko I.V. (2010) Obshchepit. Mikoyan i sovetskaya kukhnya [Public catering. Mikoyan and the Soviet cuisine]. M.: Vysshaya shkola ekonomiki (in Russian).
Goody J. (1982) Cooking, Cuisine and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Gremchenko Y.P., Roshchina Y.M. (2016) Faktory sklonnosti k zdorovomu obrazu zhizni [Factors of a propensity for a healthy lifestyle]. Vestnik Rossiyskogo monitoringa ekonomicheskogo polozheniya i zdorov'ya naseleniya NIU VSHE (RLMS-HSE) [Bulletin of the Russian Monitoring of the Economic Situation and Public Health of the Higher School of Economics (RLMS-HSE)], 6: 118–163 (in Russian).
Greshonkov A.M., Merkulova Y.Y. (2014) Analiz potrebleniya produktov pitaniya po regionam RF. [Analysis of food consumption by regions of the Russian Federation] Sotsial'no-ekonomicheskiye yavleniya i protsessy [Socio-economic phenomena and processes], 11: 54–62 (in Russian).
Kapatti A., Montanari M. (2006) Ital'yanskaya kukhnya. Istoriya odnoy kul'tury [Italian cuisine.The history of one culture]. M.: Novoye literaturnoye obozreniye (in Russian).
Khabibullina A.R. (1999) Bashkirskaya narodnaya pishcha (dissertatsiya na soiskaniye uchenoy stepeni kandidat istoricheskikh nauk) [Bashkir folk food (dissertation for the degree of candidate of historical sciences)] [http://www.dissercat.com/content/bashkirskaya-narodnaya-pishcha#ixzz4tbN... (accessed: 01.04. 2018) (in Russian).
Kozyreva P.M., Safronova A.M., Starovoytov M.L. (2014) Analiz fakticheskogo pitaniya i pishchevogo statusa razlichnykh grupp naseleniya [Analysis of actual nutrition and nutritional status of various population groups]. Vestnik Rossiyskogo monitoringa ekonomicheskogo polozheniya i zdorov'ya naseleniya NIU VSHE (RLMS-HSE) [Bulletin of the Russian Monitoring of the Economic Situation and Public Health of the Higher School of Economics (RLMS-HSE)], 4: 131–166 (in Russian).
Kozyreva P.M., Smirnov A.I., Sokolova S.B. (2016) Rasprostranennost' praktik zdorovogo obraza zhizni [The spread of practices of a healthy lifestyle]. Vestnik Rossiyskogo monitoringa ekonomicheskogo polozheniya i zdorov'ya naseleniya NIU VSHE (RLMS-HSE) [Bulletin of the Russian Monitoring of the Economic Situation and Public Health of the Higher School of Economics (RLMS-HSE), 6: 96–118 (in Russian).
Kravchenko S.A., Zarubina N.N. i dr. (2017) Sotsiologiya pitaniya: traditsii i transformatsii [Sociology of Nutrition: Traditions and Transformations]. M.: MGIMO (in Russian).
Lotman Y.M., Pogosyan Y.A. (2006) Velikosvetskiye obedy. Panorama stolichnoy zhizni. [The Great Lunches of High Society. Panorama of the Metropolitan Life.] SPb.: Izd-vo Pushkinskogo fonda (in Russian).
Montanari M. (2008) Golod i izobiliye. Istoriya pitaniya v Yevrope. [Hunger and Abundance. History of Nutrition in Europe]. SPb.: Alexandria (in Russian).
Richards A. (1995) Land, Labour, and Diet in Northern Rhodesia. Munster, Hamburg: LIT Verlag.
Simmel G. (2010) Sotsiologiya trapezy [Sociology of the meal]. Sotsiologiya: teoriya, metody, marketing [Sociology: theory, methods, marketing], 4: 187–192 (in Russian).
Sokhan I.V. (2011) Osobennosti russkoy gastronomicheskoy kul'tury [Features of Russian gastronomic culture]. Vestnik Tomskogo gosudarstvennogo universiteta. Seriya “Filosofiya, sotsiologiya, politologiya” [Bulletin of Tomsk State University. Series “Philosophy, sociology, political science”], 347: 61–68 (in Russian).
Syutkina O., Syutkin P. (2012) Nepridumannaya istoriya russkoy kukhni [Unexpected history of Russian cuisine]. M.: AST, Corpus (in Russian).
Veselov Y.V. (2014) Sotsiologiya pitaniya: teoreticheskiye osnovaniya. [Sociology of Nutrition: Theoretical Foundations]. Problemy teoreticheskoy sotsiologii [Problems of theoretical sociology], pod red. A.O. Boronoyeva. SPb.: Izd. tsentr ekonomicheskogo fakul'teta SPbGU, 10: 168–199 (in Russian).
Veselov Y.V. (2015) Povsednevnyye praktiki pitaniya. [Everyday eating practices]. Sotsiologicheskiye issledovaniya [Sociological studies], 1: 95–104 (in Russian).
Volchkova L.T., Ganskau Y.Y. (2001) Obraztsy semeynogo pitaniya kak faktor formirovaniya sotsial'nykh otnosheniy i potrebitel'skikh predpochteniy na rynke prodovol'stviya [Samples of family nutrition as a factor in the formation of social relations and consumer preferences in the food market]. Teleskop: zhurnal sotsiologicheskikh i marketingovykh issledovaniy [Telescope: Journal of Sociological and Marketing Research], 1: 34–49 (in Russian).
Volchkova L.T., Minina V.N., Ganskau Y.Y., Volchkov A.N. (2000) Strategii potrebitel'skogo povedeniya naseleniya na rynke prodovol'stvennykh tovarov Sankt-Peterburga [Strategies of consumer behavior of the population in the market of food products of St. Petersburg]. SPb.: Petropolis (in Russian).
